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Roter Veltliner Wine

Roter Veltliner is a pretty obscure variety even in its native Austria. I first tasted it a few years ago at the wine fair in Vienna. Being a “wine professional” I was compelled to pretend I was familiar with it. Being a wine lover I felt compelled to become familiar with it; Roter Veltliner is marvelous.

It is not genetically related to Gruner Veltliner wine so don’t form preconceptions; not that you’ll be disappointed, just confused. I’ve not had occasion to yak with anyone who grows this grape but I’m given to understand that clonal selection and keeping the yields down are critical to making fine wine from it but that’s true of many varietals.

This is a wine of concentration; a certain bigness and intensity. It has a wonderful mouth feel. The aromas have an Asian spice character highlighted by zest of Myer lemons and cut grass. The flavours are muskmelon, golden currants and grilled pitted fruits. Some stoniness to the finish.

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Ecker Roter Veltliner 2007 
Characteristics: We have worked hard to corner the market on the excellent and ancient Roter Veltliner Grape. So enamored with this vine am I, that I am willing to defend it with unspeakable violence. It has fathered many of Austria’s rare and unique vines and is thought to be an ancestor of the great Grüner Veltliner. While the wine it produces is white, Rot (German for red) speaks to the ‘Pinot Gris’ tinted skin of this variety. The Donauland especially is a fine proponent for this once endangered vine and Ecker does a great job of coaxing excellence from this demanding vine, which has a reputation for being difficult to control and ripen if not grown on the correct soil. It has more luscious aromas than Grüner. It is a floral and sappy blend of pomaceous fruit and has a ‘Ruwer-like cinnamon’ spice and great acidity. Consider it instead of Oregon Pinot Gris, California Sauvignon Blanc or Tocai Friulano with seafood, spring greens, or roasted poultry. -BH (tasted 12/05/08)
Producer Location: Austria
Average Rating: not available
Type: White
Bottle size: 750 mL
Bottles Per Case: 12
Price: $23.00/bottle
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Eichinger Roter Veltliner Wechselberg 2006 
Characteristics: I’m not sure how honest I should be about this wine since we get so little, and I am hoarding it for myself to drink at home, but here goes nothing. I LOVE THIS WINE. Roter Veltliner is a very distant forbearer to the Gruner Veltliner grape we know and love today. Painfully little is still grown in Austria only because it is not the most reliably productive of grape species, but when it works it sings. This wine has great aromatics with limey, peachy fruit backed by roses and lilacs. It is as pretty and intriguing as the day is long. The mouth is fantastic and pleasingly tart. That may not sound like high praise, but this is one of the only white wines I have ever tasted that reminds me of red fruits (tart red cherries to be precise) in the mouth. It is not a descriptor that I typically associate with white wines, but I love it here. Note to the raw oyster fans out there – this wine may help you to end your quest for the perfect match! -WB
Producer Location: Austria - Kamptal
Average Rating: not available
Type: White
Bottle size: 750 mL
Bottles Per Case: 12
Price: $20.00/bottle
My Rating:
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