I, on occasion, have been likened to the eagle at Prometheus' chest.  I'm not even as picky as sad Prometheus' protagonist; I gleefully devour liver, heart, any and all offal.  I may be a heathen but let me arrest any suspicion that I am cannibalistic.   Like most men, I long for the hearts and minds of my fellowman but not for diner.  It is the innards of those creatures below us on the food chain. 

It gives me some pleasure and a sense of penance when I consider that in the food chain scheme my body will be feasted upon by the worms.  I even think of my culinary life as preparation for those hungry hermaphrodites.  “A might tough but well spiced and marinated with fearful deliberation.”  A eulogy of which I will be proud. 

You are undoubtedly wondering, does this have anything to do with wine?  But, of course.  Offal gets scant mention by food and wine pairing pontiffs.  

This last weekend I was in New York City to visit my eldest son and future daughter-in-law.   Eating in New York is an adventure; unending given the pace of restaurant openings.  In the course of three evening meals I had dishes to which I would like to address my impressions about wine pairings.  Admittedly it is unlikely that you'll ever be in the position where one of these dishes will dictate the wine choice but still is useful to have given it some thought. 

Hannibal Lector was not wrong to recommend a nice little Chianti with liver and some fava beans.  With calf’s liver, however, my choice is a young Rioja.  A joven would be my first choice; a wine that sees no wood aging and is bottled early with lots of freshness.  A crianza if joven is not available but pick a recent vintage that will drink well young; fortunately there are good vintages on the shelves now; 2007, 2006 and ’05. 

Tripe, especially Roman style with lots of tomatoes, is where Hannibal’s little Chianti will shine.  Little Chianti here means from regions that are lighter and fruitier.  Try Colli Senesi or Colli Fiorentini. 

I don’t know if bone marrow is offal or not but I’ll save that for another time.  I’ve made myself famished.  Enjoy!

Posted by Marcus Mansavage at 07/15/2010 03:22:31 PM